Here's Why We Need Canada's Hospitality More Than Ever

Dear Pros,

It's Melanie Hansche here, editorial director of special projects. I help produce Food & Wine's big and shiny packages like Global Tastemakers and Best New Chefs while also holding down a special project of my own as the co-owner of two restaurants in Easton, Pennsylvania.

As an Aussie expat, I've long felt an affinity for the United States' northern neighbors. Visiting Canada feels like home, and not just because we share a somewhat outdated connection to the British monarchy and a very good metric system. There's a certain laid-back friendliness and energy across the border that reminds me of Australians. It means that F&W's latest special project, "At Canada’s Table," is one close to my heart.

This week we unveiled a digital travel issue, sponsored by Destination Canada, celebrating the vast flavors and foodways of Canada, guest edited by the brand's longtime friend and contributor, Gail Simmons. (Fun fact: she used to hold the same title as me at the brand.) We tapped Gail not just because the new season of Top Chef was filmed in Canada, but also to celebrate that the country's food culture is finally getting its due. (Newflash: Canada is not a monolith of poutine and maple syrup!)

Together with a group of mostly local writers, chefs, cookbook authors, and adventurers, we dove into the bigger picture, bringing to life the traditions of the country's First Nations, Inuit, and Métis people. We explored the joyful and unconstrained cooking by a multitude of diasporas who call Canada home, and the creativity and innovation in vibrant cities and restaurants as well as in some of the most wild terrain on earth.

As Gail says in her opening essay, "My quick pitch is this: Canada is a microregional, ingredient-obsessed, joy-seeking, and respectfully rebellious teenager on the brink of brilliance."

Of course, it would be remiss of me not to acknowledge the very large tariff-sized moose in the room. As we began working on this project last October, we had no idea that both countries would be in the predicament they're in now. As a restaurant owner — especially one with a focus on imported wine from Australia and Europe — I'm acutely aware of how tariffs might affect businesses in the travel and hospitality industries. And with the situation seemingly changing in whiplash fashion from day-to-day, the uncertainty is anxiety-inducing.

It's estimated that the U.S. travel industry could take a hit to the tune of a few billion dollars should Canadians decide to invest their vacation dollars elsewhere or at home. And if the flow of tourists disrupts the other way, hospitality workers in Canadian provinces close to the border could be affected, too. Whether it's the increased cost of ingredients in restaurants being passed on to diners, or the price of hotel rooms or flights going up due to a drop in trade, business travel, or layoffs, tariffs have the potential to adversely affect this industry we all love and rely on.

If you ask me, it seems more vital than ever to embrace the deeply rooted cultural partnership that the USA and Canada have enjoyed for so long and the incredible dining and travel experiences that await in the Great White North. Food is the great connector, after all, Coffee Crisps and beavertails included. So what are you waiting for? Your neighbors are holding a seat at the table for you.

Cheers,
Melanie Hansche